Apple of my eye, part deaux

by Bianca

More on apples, and New York. My roommates and I decided to go apple-picking for Amanda's birthday (she's the one in the red plaid top), so we rented a car---and luckily got upgraded to a BMW sedan---and went upstate to Outhouse Orchards. By the time we got there, the apples left were most Cortland and Red Delicious, as the Honeycrisps (my favorite) had been picked early in the season. Nonetheless, we had a pretty good time walking around the orchard, picking apples off trees, and munching on them as we went along.

However, my favorite part of the orchard was the stall that sold apple cider donuts. I am not kidding when I say that those were probably the best I've had in my life; warm and springy, they were dusted with cinnamon sugar. I may or may not have had three--it's all a blur now. In my defense, I didn't have lunch prior to coming to the orchard.

Now that we've a sack full of apples in the apartment, we've been coming up with inventive ways to use them. Mostly, we eat them raw---I cut cheese cubes to go with them, or dip them in speculoos spread and granola for an easy dessert. Now that New York is coated in snow from an early October snowstorm, I'm glad we went on that apple picking adventure last week to savor the weather and the Van Gogh-like landscape upstate.

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Viva La Vegan

by Ryan

Where's the beef?: A meat-free pizza party at Kitchen Revolution

Usually, the word 'vegan' gives me pause. I once spent two nights at The Farm at San Benito, and after several meals of coconut-derived bacon and crumbly mock tofu egg, I was knee-deep in withdrawal, hallucinating tap dancing Big Macs and pieces of sirloin that called out my name.

Come with me, Ryan, it said while showing its well-marbled rear. Meat is always fun!

Going vegetarian I can understand; there are certain virtues to skipping meat once in a while. While I don't mind the occasional faux pork banh mi at Wabi-Sabi, I've always thought of veganism as vegetarianism's pickier, snootier sister  -- one who does Bikram yoga, organizes weekly PETA rallies, and subsists on a steady diet of leaves and misery.

The party was over once the vegan arrived. Or at least that's what I thought.

Chef Marie Gonzalez runs Kitchen Revolution (KR), both a blog and a series of classes, which does much to elevate vegan and vegetarian cooking in the eyes of the meat-savvy public. "People have this impression about vegans and vegetarians; that they rarely eat, and it's all about Mother Earth and Sister Moon to them. That's not really the case here."

Chef Marie (middle) with some of the Kitchen Revolution students

By here she means KR's test site, a working kitchen in her Alabang residence that churns out surprisingly delectable dishes from ratatouille to toasted couscous to tofu barbecue on a weekly basis. Different cuisines or party ideas each class keep the curriculum fresh and dynamic. It's fun, interactive, and even the most adamant of carnivores are bound to be impressed. (Northerners need not fret; Marie held a cooking class at Teachers Village's Pipino, and plans to do so again in the near future.)

For her recent birthday, Marie threw a pizza party at her home, and in true KR fashion, made up for sausage and bacon in absentia with some marvelous substitutes: marinara, roasted garlic and eggplant, tofu ricotta, almond parmesan, and (gasp!) truffle oil among other things.

It's not everyday you go to a dinner party, and end up working for your own meal, but who's to complain? (Actually I did, because I chose a dry, whole wheat dough instead of regular dough, but that's besides the point.) Everyone had a great time especially Jella who practically wrestled with her pizza:

Pie's the limit: Guests' pizzas all lined up before the oven

In a culinary culture bombarded by quick-fix seasonings and fast food "infused" with so-called nutritional properties *cough*Jollibee chicken nuggets with carrots*cough*, it's reassuring to see that there are new options for people who want to eat better. I don't dream of that dancing sirloin these days, but of a crusty pizza laden with plump mushrooms, fat onion slices, and a bed of hot tofu ricotta drizzled with truffle oil no less.

From left to right: Marie, friends Earnie, Jella, Jerome, and Forkplay's very own Jon

As if that weren't enough, for dessert, Marie prepared an impressive vegan banana cream pie with a layer of speculoos. Speculoos is a peanut butter or Nutella-like spread made in Belgium that uses traditional gingerbread cookies as its base. It's almost unheard of locally, but if you have friends going to Europe or New York they must bring this back at all costs. It does wonders for waffles and toast, but banana cream pie is no less of a winner. It's hard to think something so good could also be guilt-free, but then again that's the whole preamble of Marie's classes.

Knee-quivering good speculoos banana cream pie

Contact Kitchen Revolution at +639178945086 or email info@kitchenrevolution.ph

Visit KR at http://www.facebook.com/kitchenrevolution or at kitchenrevolution.ph

Upcoming classes:

November

5th - Pinoy meets vegan

19th - Perfection by way of pizza

26th - Much ado about hors d'oeuvres

December
3rd or 10th - Vegan Noche Buena or Pies and cookies

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Apple of my eye

by Bianca

As a grad school student in New York, one of the priciest cities in the world, I'm always pinching pennies. At the same time, family and friends warned me against stuffing myself with cheap, unhealthy junk food (check out this video on Bronx bodegas, where the "food" is dirt cheap and probably just as unhealthy as that), so I make an effort to get my fill of fruit and vegetables every week. Whole Foods? Forget it. I get my goods at Trader Joe's and farmer's markets in the Bronx, where I'm assigned to report.

But again, as a grad student, time is just as scarce as money, so I can't keep making meals and snacks from scratch every day. When I find pockets of time, I cook in big batches to spread out for several meals. Over the weekend, I made a chicken potpie topped with Southern biscuits; today, I made homemade salsa with juicy red tomatoes and plenty of cilantro to use as stuffing for chicken-hummus whole grain wraps. I've already made balsamic adobo twice, and I'm proud to say my cooking skills have greatly improved.

However, I've a big problem with snacking---I end up writing a lot of papers well into the night, and I need brain food to keep going. Unfortunately, my soft spot for Oreos and milk isn't doing my sugar levels any favors, so I had to come up with munchies to help me get through those nights (and long days in the classroom).

I love Seneca apple chips; who doesn't? But they're pretty pricey, and after discovering that they were actually fried and not baked, I swore to make my own. I already owned a dehydrator (a spinoff of a previous project on fruit leathers---more on that in another entry), so making these were a cinch.

Slice apples thinly to get your chips crispy

You can core the apples or leave that pretty star-shaped center

Soak sliced apples in lemon water to
prevent them from browning

Sprinkle with cinnamon, and lay them on your dehydrator 

Check on them after 4-8 hours (depending on the temperature used.
I prefer a low one to keep the enzymes alive). 

Sprinkle even more cinnamon to taste, and sugar if you want.

Ta-dah! Apple chips!

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Peca(n) Boo!: Where to find Manila's Pecan Pies

by Twinkle

A pecan pie is hard to find, a good pecan pie is even harder.

I used to go to Mamou for my regular pecan pie fix, but lately I've been wondering "what else is out there?".  So I've search high and low, got distracted by other desserts along the way, and came to the conclusion that I would hate it if someone gave me a box full of Lusso’s pecan pie as a gift.

The flaky crust, rich pie filling, and generous portion of fresh pecans simply make me cave in and reach for just ‘one more’.  I would go to Lusso just to have this pie.  So imagine how dangerous it is for me to actually have one big box in the fridge, calling out my name.  After having a few mini pies, I realized eating it with a fork just doesn't cut it.  I don’t mean for you to go all ‘Rambo’ at the dinner table (although that would be entertaining to watch), but pick-up the pecan pie with your hands and take one big bite.  I can’t explain it, but it makes the experience of that first bite even better.

It was calling out my name and I answered…

pecan pie + hot cup of tea = sweet beginnings (dessert for breakfast)

Using the same principle for budget re-alignment, I have my pecan pie for breakfast then promised to be good for the rest of the day just to balance out the calories.  Self-deluded?  Maybe, but it makes me feel better if I look at it that way.

Other things I tell myself to justify eating pecan (pie):

1.   Pecans are sodium-free.

2.   1 ounce of pecans = 10% of the daily recommended value for fiber, and has over 19 vitamins     and minerals.

3.   Pecans are part of the elite food group that are known for having the highest antioxidant capacity.

4.   A handful of pecans a day helps prevent coronary heart disease.

5.   I’ll start my diet after enjoying this last slice… (And we all know that’s not happening…)

Since we can now feel better about having a slice or two, here's the shortlist of places where you could find the right pecan pie for you.

                       Manila’s Pecan Pies –  The hit or miss list:

1.  Lusso 

           G/F Greenbelt 5, Legaspi St.,

           Legaspi Village, Makati

           (02) 756-5893

2.  Mamou/Blue Kitchen – A favorite go-to place for pecan pie.

             The Blue Kitchen,

             Power Plant Mall

             (02) 898-0931

3.  Mandarin Oriental Hotel (upon request)

             Makati Avenue, 

             Makati City 

             (02) 750 8888

4.  Calea (Bacolod City) – It's not in Manila but I couldn't resist adding it on to the list.  If you want it that bad, you will travel for pie.

             Lourdes - C Bldg. Lacson St.

             Bacolod City, Negros Occidental

             (034) 433-866

5.  U.S. Embassy Cafeteria – Initially I thought this was just an urban legend but I just verified that it exists!  Chef P says it’s not just good - it’s “soooo ggoooooood”.  This is definitely going to be the next on my list!

6. Dulcelin Gourmet’s Caramel Pecan Walnut Pie

             36 Times St., West Triangle

             Quezon City 1104

             (02) 374-2165 

7.  Marciano's

            2/F Greenbelt 3

            Legaspi Village, Makati

            (02) 729-0467

8.  Tourne’s Pili Pie –  If you want to try the local alternative.  It's not the crust, nor is it the filling that make the dish.  The freshness of the pili nuts used (sourced from Naga) is undoubtedly the star of this dessert.  

              The Fort Strip

              (02) 555-0267

P.S. I haven’t tried them all myself, so if you’ve tried any of the items on the list, and want to save me some calories please do let me know which ones I should make room for.  

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Diwal-icious at the Mandarin Oriental

by Ryan

Sometimes one good thing leads to another: While tracking down a baker from Ilo-Ilo known for her homemade yema cake, Twinkle and I ended up with invites to a Visayan-themed luncheon at the Mandarin Oriental. As it turns out, the baker in question was also guesting at Paseo Uno for this week's Diwal-icious Visayas: Bounties of The Sea. Not only did we have our fill of yema cake (flown in from Bacolod no less), but also of Chef Pauline Gorriceta-Banusing's other specialties inspired by Ilo-Ilo's thriving culinary scene.

Just this week: Diwal-icious at Paseo Uno

Expect a variety of shellfish including diwal
'Angel Wing' clams (upper right)  during the week-long festival

The food fest revolves around diwal or Angel Wing clams - succulent, juicy shellfish flown in from Capiz. Placed in the endangered species list years ago, diwal has made a bold comeback thanks to the concerted efforts of Capiz locals, the government, and the scientific community. So serious are they about seafood that they hold a yearly seafood festival in Roxas City to celebrate the return of diwal.

Personally I've never been much of a seafood fanatic past the occasional fish and chips. (Which is a shame I know given that I live in a country of over 7,000 islands.) Live shrimp and lobster at Chinese restaurant aquariums intrigue and horrify me, and when cooked and served whole, impress me more as subjects for dissection than potential dinner.

Mmm... Can somebody say facehugger from Aliens?

Bring on the Filipino flavors. Clockwise from upper right: Shrimps in aligue, tuna kilawin, fresh lumpia

Still, it's hard not to resist Mandarin's current seafood buffet (even though diwal's scientific name, cyrtopleura costata, still unnerves me). Expect baby lobsters, shrimp cooked with crab fat, blue marlin, seaweed salad, and pink salmon among the cast. As for the famous clam, you'll be surprised by how much meat there is in each shell. Found fresh, it's already surprisingly sweet. But at the buffet, a little garlic and rock salt adds some welcome contrast. Abroad, diwal is called Angel Wing clams; a prettier, gentler name taken from it's long, oblong-shaped shell reminiscent of angel wings.

Sweet, delicate, juicy Adriana Lima -er, Angel Clams

And while you dine on Visayan seafood, God forbid this be an Ilonggo buffet without all-stars like chicken inasal, chicken binakol, and batchoy.

I'm only happy when it rains...and I'm eating batchoy

Chef Pauline's Chicken binakol has subtler flavors

After what seemed like endless trips back to the buffet table, Twinkle and I finally sunk our forks into Chef Pauline's winning yema cake. Part of The Philippine Daily Inquirer's list of 25 best desserts for 2010, the yema cake will spoil you from first to the last mouthful. Texture-wise it's very dense with layers of meringue icing and yema spread that, as a whole, surprisingly, isn't as sweet as you'd expect. There's a welcome sprinkling of cashew on top as well. Last holiday season, Chef Pauline received a total of 113 orders a few days before Christmas, prompting her to fly from Ilo-Ilo City to Manila on board with more than a hundred boxes of yema cake. Now that's dedication.

The infamous yema cake

Thankfully, she's found an easier way since then: Manileños can order 5 days ahead from Chef Pauline and expect their cake flown over and made available for pick up at her family's restaurant, Freska, at the Promenade in Greenhills. In the meantime, you can savor as much of it as you want the whole of this week, or hoard taro-based toffee bars and servings of ibo (a type of local suman) drizzled with molasses and slivers of Guimaras mango.

Twinkle trying to pry the yema cake recipe from Chef Pauline...

Diwal-icious Visayas: Bounties of The Sea is available at Paseo Uno, The Mandarin Oriental, Makati City from September 19 to 25. Buffet starts at Php 1,800.00++. For more information contact +63 (2) 7508888 ext. 2412/2413.

To order Chef Pauline Gorriceta-Banusing's yema cake contact +63 (2) 7443446, +63 09209039603, or e-mail paulineiloilo@yahoo.com.

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InDinePendence Day Part 1

Street vendors have started selling Philippine flags once again which could only mean one of two things: Either the symbol of our nation can also double as a handy pranela or Independence Day is coming up. Whether or not you paid attention during Araling Panlipunan class, June 12 combines two important milestones in Philippine history – the start of the hot-blooded rebellion against Spain, and later on, graduation from American colony to nation of jeepney-honking, balut-eating patriots. There's no denying our heritage is rich and vibrant, and you don’t even have to go textbook thumping to find out why. Just ask esteemed national historian Professor Yoyoy Villame:

So in honor of Independence Day 2011, Forkplay celebrates our liberation from the drudgery of bland food with 12 of our favorite Filipino dishes (in 2 parts) as redone by some of Manila's top chefs and restaurateurs. Whether it's Claude Tayag's scrumptious pan de bagnet or the deconstructed adobo of KYSS, we've been lucky enough to sample some of these bites, and lived to tell the tale. So we hope you celebrate this Sunday as 'InDinePendence Day', which we admit is blatantly corny, but still, it's a great opportunity to check out how Filipino cuisine has evolved in a globalized world. Let's get started!

Forkplay's Top 12 Favorite Modern Filipino Dishes (in no particular order)

Bacon chicharon. Good things St. Luke's ER is only a few blocks away.

12. BUFFALO BACON CHICHARON

Where: 2nd's, Bonifacio High Street, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig

Claim to fame: 2nd's plush interiors might look like the snazzy set of Mad Men or Boardwalk Empire, but this is undeniably comfort food at its most posh. Their irresistible bacon chicharon, whether served in a pile or with the Brutus (Caesar) salad, is a broad, crisp strip of fried pork that comes with a muscovado mustard and spiced vinegar dip. 

Always order at least two of Chef's Bruce's buko pie martini.

11. BUKO PIE MARTINI

Where: Chef's Table, Infinity Tower, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig   

Claim to fame: Chef Bruce Lim just might be the Indiana Jones of local cooking. He's traveled around the country, picking up peculiar lambanog flavors from Quezon or kilawin from Tabon-Tabon, and possibly eating cooked bat on at least one occasion. Chef Table's buko pie martini is a hot, sweet, and creamy concoction that's made on the open counter of Bruce's kitchen. One is never enough.

Claude Tayag's pan de bagnet. One of the few reasons  to wrench yourself from bed
on a lazy Saturday morning and drive all the way to the Fort.

10. PAN DE BAGNET

Where: Mercato Centrale, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig / Bale Dutung, Angeles City, Pampanga

Claim to fame: There's an ongoing debate among the Forkplay bloggers whether it's better heading to Mercato Centrale on mornings or evenings. If there's one reason to opt for morning's though it's Chef Claude Tayag's pan de bagnet - a Kapampangan homage to porchetta that combines delicate slices of fried pork with lettuce, tomatoes, and bagoong, drizzled with a zesty Asian sauce, in a crusty ciabatta bun. It packs quite a punch for lunch or a mid-morning heavy snack.

This bold-flavored pizza is almost as racy as Rizal's 27th girlfriend.

9. FILIPINO PIZZA

Where: Gourdo's, The Fort Strip, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig

Claim to fame: Longganisa bits, farmer's cheese, slices of green mango, and salted egg - these are the last things you'd expect to describe a pizza, and yet for all its unusual ingredients, Gourdo's patriotic pie paints a good picture of how Filipinos eat. Big on contrasts, each bite can be sweet, salty or sour, gooey or grainy. Some will find it amazingly versatile, others, quite schizophrenic. Bold and creative, this pizza is a must for the more adventurous diners.

Sisig and noodles. Fat and carbs. Heaven and hell.

8. SISIG PASTA

Where: Hyphy's, The Veranda, Robinsons Galleria, EDSA corner Ortigas Avenue, Quezon City

Claim to fame: Hyphy is San Francisco slang for 'hyperactive', which describes much of the menu: a frenetic, gastronomical whirlwind tour through SanFo's many districts and cultures as put together by Chef Bruce Lim. Their sisig pasta will raise a few eyebrows: Pork maskara and a tangy cream thrown in with chilies, cheese, and calamansi. Every forkful is potent with flavors, but it can get cloying after a while so make sure to order other dishes as well.

Gratifying and guilt-free: Pino's kare-kare will make you think twice about vegan cuisine.

7. VEGAN KARE-KARE
Where: PIPINO, 2nd Floor (above Pino restaurant), 39 Malingap Street, Teacher's Village, Quezon City
Claim to fame: Sure, PIPINO is a vegetarian/vegan restaurant, one of several that orbit around UP and the Loyola Heights area, but if you're expecting folk music, faux meat, and the scent of patchouli, think again. Chef Ed Bugia, Alessa Libongco, and their partners have come up with solid, satisfying vegan fare that anyone can appreciate. The homiest of the dishes has to be the house kare-kare, a heart-warming stew of vegetables served with brown rice and black bean-based bagoong. Perfect for rainy weather, and days you want to detox from the week's binge without cutting back on flavor.
   

Where to next? Check out bibingka soufflé and leche flan turon in part 2 of the list on June 12th.

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Cash and Curry

Welcome to the future. Beep boop beep.

Over the years, I’ve nursed a secret love-hate relationship with Bollywood movies. Bombastic, over-the-top, and always packed with cheesy song and dance numbers, I lack the willpower to watch an entire film in one go, preferring instead to take things piecemeal. At Swagat, for instance, a low key Indian diner in Makati, the sari-clad staff will let you mull over roti and curry while watching an endless stream of Bollywood clips: From break dancing Sikhs to weepy princesses to mustachioed matinee idols. (You can also rent Bollywood DVDs and buy jewelry.) You’ll get the same treatment at Swagat’s younger, more upscale sibling, Namaste in Burgos Circle. The tandoori might come from an authentic clay oven, but the atmosphere is just as homey. Owner Komal Khanchandani hovers around like a doting Indian mother, gently prodding diners if they want seconds of crackling papadom.

Roghan Josh at Namaste

Currently, I’m still reeling from Enthiran, Bollywood’s biggest billeted film ever. Equal parts Transformers, The Matrix, and I Robot, it’s the Indian action genre at its most outrageous. Dr. Vaseegaran (played by Asia’s second highest paid actor after Jackie Chan), builds a super-smart robot that looks like him called ‘Chitibubu’ because, you know, it’s a kick ass name in Hindi. When not programming Chitibubu to do the Hammer dance or beat up his lab assistants, Dr. Vaseegaran still has time to flirt with Aishwarya Rai’s character. What a horndog.

Eventually Chitibubu goes rouge, rampaging across a three-hour film filled with exploding cars, smoldering looks, and musical numbers. Suspension of disbelief does not begin to describe Enthiran. Especially so when Chitibubu rides a policeman like a surfboard then multiplies into mean, leather-clad Oompa Loompas who merge into a giant cobra, and gun down dozens more of Indian officers. Throughout most of the climactic battle scene, you’re left shaking your head at how a loveable Indian robot could graduate from break dancing to large scale destruction.

It’s the perfect popcorn flick, but since it’s Bollywood, samosas might be a good substitute. The thing is Indian cuisine continues to fascinate and confuse me: I’ve gawked at aerodynamic wraps of dosa in Singapore’s budget terminal, double-dipped my bread in masala sauce at a Bangalore food court, and hoarded biscuits from the local Indian grocery just because the child on the packaging is adorable. 

Who can say no to those eyes? Those eyes!

In a way Indian food and film keep crossing paths: Couples ply each other with fruits as they playfully chase through forests, weddings are always a feast, and action stars tear through kebabs with relish.   

I have yet to finish Enthiran, but from where I left off, Aishwarya Rai survives, although most don’t including my fragile mind. Somewhere along the way, even before Chitibubu magnetically turns the policemen’s machine guns against them, I lost track of time. It may have been the desert courtship scene. Here, the lead actor who is well over 60, wears a thick toupee. Hiding his gut under layers of scarves and jackets, Dr. Vaseegaran sways his hips to the singsong tunes of Tamil music. There, frolicking amid the sand dunes with his leading lady, I realize I’ve gotten more than what I had bargained for. -- Gastro Boy

This is what all women fantasize about.

Craving for curry? Head to these outposts of Indian cuisine right in Makati and Manila:

Swagat Indian Cuisine

For close to 8 years a mainstay along Rada, you can chow down on your chapati next to Indian expats and AIM students. Swing by during Diwali season to see Swagat decked out with colorful lights. Beware though; you'll easily lose track of time with all the Bollywood DVDs they play.

119 FCC Building, Rada Street, Legaspi Village, Makati City

(632) 501-5079 / 752-5669

Everyday 11:00 AM to 11:00 PM

Namaste India

Fairly new, Swagat's upscale sibling has a built-in clay oven for an even more authentic feel without charging an arm and a leg. Look for favorites like the Roghan Josh, Chicken Rashmi, and Malai Kabab. There's burfi to be had too - a coconut-based sweet that's just like our bokayo.

Unit 1A, Burgos Circle
Forbestown, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City

(632)  403-6088
Everyday 10:00 AM to 11:00 PM

Assad Mini Mart

I just love Assad. From wacky snacks to piping hot samosas over the counter, this is the place to go if you want to dabble in cooking Indian at home. Should the exotic offerings puzzle you, the staff's on hand to explain what goes with what else. There are two branches: UN Avenue in Manila and along Jupiter Street in Makati.

Eurocrest Building, Jupiter Street, Bel-Air Village, Makati City

1268-IJK Midtown Hotel Executive Homes
United Nation Avenue, Paco, Manila

(632) 5261349 / 5265034

Everyday 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM

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