Orient Express Part 1

Forkplay gets lost in Binondo

Lech-Get It-On!

Jon goes toe to toe with Uncle Cheffy's garlic studded pork belly lechon

This Diet Ain't Proletariat

Raise your forks to the revolution! Discover Hunan and Sichuan cooking at Komrad

Apple of My Eye

Bianca trades the Big Apple for real apple-picking in upstate New York

Pork Barrel

Roast with the most or hyped up ham? We put the Anthony Bourdain-acclaimed Zubuchon lechon to the test

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Pork Barrel

"I can't believe they increased parking rates. It's absolutely crazy." My friend Kim was visibly, sincerely upset as we entered the parking basement of Ayala Center in Cebu. The bone she wanted to pick with the mall involved the jacking up of the parking fee - from fifteen pesos to an astonishing twenty. Flat rate. 

In Manila, that's what's considered a steal, and yet Kim would have none of it. She cussed in Bisaya, egged on by my heckling. 

Later on I floated the issue with other Cebuano friends who were just as peeved not to get their five pesos back. Until then I had just accepted the regular shilling out of hundreds of pesos weekly for parking (at one time, nearly P300 in Makati) in Manila as the norm, but then I realized that the locals and I operated on different wavelengths. The differences however, did not end here.

I've always felt that Manila and Cebu have always been at odds, locked in some kind of quasi-cultural rivalry that I haven't fully understood yet. But if there's one thing where Cebu constantly out-trumps Manila, it's with lechon. This was obviously made plain when two friends escorted me to the nearest Zubuchon outlet.

Pigging out: Diners flock to Zubuchon made famous by Anthony Bourdain's endorsement
Zubuchon is the creation of Joel Binamira, more commonly known by his nom de guerre Market Man of marketmanila.com. The restaurant's popularity stems from its flagship lechon cooked sans MSG or gears or additives. Instead he does things 'ye olde fashion way' with lemongrass, pepper, olive oil, and sea salt as healthier alternatives. (It's also with some consolation that the pigs themselves are raised in private backyards, and cheerfully trot around. But not for long.) 

The lechon is staked on bamboo poles, stuffed with herbs and spices, and roasted diligently over a charcoal pit by a crack team of lechoneros. The result is lusty, succulent, flavorful pork tucked under crisp, liempo-like crispy skin. In short -- a cardiologist's worst nightmare.

Let's get it on, Lechon: Zubuchon's flagship is packed with flavor inside and out
"It's all-natural lechon. I heard the pigs are raised on a diet of chicos," mulled my friend Clark who drove us to Zubuchon's newest branch along Escario Street. It was a busy Sunday night for the staff who promptly announced to us that they had, as of seven thirty in the evening, run out of lechon. And with good reason: Joel's lechon first became a hit at one of Cebu's weekend markets, and by the time word got out, No Reservation's Anthony Bourdain had also chirped in with his own  testimonial that it was the "World's best whole roasted pig" - a claim scribbled on each of the branch's glass counters.

  
Left: The staff works around the clock to keep up with the holiday rush. Right: Among Zubuchon's other pork offerings are slow-cooked adobo, dinuguan, chorizo, pork flakes, and yes, even Zubuchon-certified pork lard.
Not content with lechon, Zubuchon also offers other pork staples borrowed from the carnivorous Filipino mindset like dinuguan, chorizo, and even sisig. It's enough to make one's knees quiver. After the letdown at the restaurant, Clark and I headed to another branch that was busy plying in pigs. The restaurant was packed. The staff squeezed through the aisles made narrow by long tables of families while other customers were huddled over the counter for take-out. And everywhere - the constant tearing and tugging and nibbling of lechon skin.  

Visitors to Cebu (whose ancient name was 'Sugbu' hence 'Zubuchon'), need not return empty-handed to their friends back home. There's much to be had in terms of frozen lechon or chicharon. I took home some from the tiny take-out stand at the pasalubong section of Mactan Airport's departure gate. Clutching my two bags-worth of pasalubong, I was ready to barrel down the security check point. All it took however was a flash of the logo on one of the take-out bags, and the airport personnel already seemed to understand the graveness of my intentions. I'd either come home with lechon or not leave at all. 

The next morning, I had lechon for breakfast. That night, more of it. When that run its course, it was time for paksiw.   

The morning-after takeout lechon. Still pretty good. 
Zubuchon
Escario Building, Escario Street, Cebu City (032) 5835699
One Mango Avenue Building, Cebu City (032)2395697
Mactan Airport Departure Lounge, Mactan City (63) 0917 6274761 

Sunday, November 27, 2011

The Breakfast and The Furious

by Ryan

(Firstly, I apologize for the corny title. Really, this is what you get from taking two Creative Writing classes in college so there.)

Once upon a time there was a quaint all-day breakfast joint in Tomas Morato called Heaven n' Eggs. It wasn't the best place on earth but needless to say it had its rustic charm. It had a solid lineup of pancakes, toast, and then some. (Sorry for the ambiguity; this was years ago when things like masticating cold, leathery five-day old pizza counted as a proper meal.)

Slowly though things got weird. Its last branch in Glorietta traded in the sky blue wallpaper for black, and changed the concept from rustic breakfast place to heavy metal rock act. Because as we all know, breakfast brings to mind screeching guitars, leather, and KISS.

Bacon, eggs, toast, demon's blood - all part of a complete and balanced breakfast.

Trends have come and gone - a dizzying list of cupcakes, burgers, frozen yogurt, and milk tea joints - but all-day breakfast? Not quite. There's a little joint in Barangay Kapitolyo's budding dining street though that's sold out on having diners down cereal at nine o'clock in the evening. Whimsically called Milky & Sunny, the venture plies pancakes spouting pet names teenage sweethearts would call each other like Blueberry Honeypie or Choco Marble Warble. The cutesy Sanrio Little Twin Stars concept aside, the food - fluffy pancakes, hearty rice meals, and cold cereal - may not be wholly magical yet but it is damn satisfying.

Left: Milky and Sunny's Strawberry Cream Cheese pancake. Right: A logo I fell in love with at first sight.
There's the Strawberry Cream Cheese pancake (P140) with swathes of Philadelphia and jam between layers. A fourth pancake would have probably made this a more impressive stack, but even then, apart from the gussied up spread, it's still downright homey. Growing boys and lumberjacks should opt for the Breakfast Big Plate (P250) where you can mix and match several protein-rich choices like sausage and corned beef with the breakfast staples of bread (bagel or white), hash brown, and eggs. It's a gratifying sight when set on your table but then again you could probably have the same deal at home.

The Big Plate is perfect for the growing man-child in all of us.
The omelettes add a bit more flair what with a winner like their bell pepper, potatoes, and sausage combo (P130) that's both sweet and slightly garlicky with a smattering of pesto on top. Sugar-deprived students from St. Paul's and UA&P can avail of cereal too: There's Koko Krunch and Honey Stars to be had, but it would be nice to spot some Cap'n Crunch and Fruit Loops in the mix as well.

Left: Quirky artwork lend a sense of the fanciful to the ambiance. Right: Milky and Sunny's
red and green bell pepper with potatoes and sausage omelette  
As restaurants continue to explore the idea of comfort food as something worth building on, Milky & Sunny could very well shine in a neighborhood that's quickly getting saturated with restaurants as Kapitolyo. (Guys, would it really hurt to try something else other than Charlie's for once?) There's some lingering irony however: In trying to promote its image as an all-day breakfast diner plying pancake and eggs the way mom makes it, diners might begin to wonder why they ought to pay for food they could readily have at home.

Still if just for the charming, bright blue ambiance, the chill working space, and solid breakfast fare, I may be persuaded for a second bowl of Honey Stars.

Milky & Sunny is located in #9 East Capitol Drive, Briggy Hall, Barangay Kapitolyo, Pasig City. Visit their Facebook page here

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

KaBLAM! for your Buck: KFC Double Down Zinger

by Jon

Some writers dilly-dally over the minute details of food - the tiptoeing of flavor in their mouths or the niceties of tableware. Sometimes they might whine about how the food is not too authentic, too 'gourmet'. *cough* Ryan *cough*. This is not that blog series.

Welcome to KaBLAM! for your Buck, my personal segment here at Forkplay. You've heard from Twinkle, Bianca, and Ryan, but it's taken me some time do my own research. What that research is involves the return of a fearsome beast! It's the Meat that Repeats! The Dean of Protein!  The Chicken that Takes a Biting and Keeps on... uh... Fighting! I am of course referring to KFC's heart-stopping Double Down. A "sandwich" which KFC claimed had so much chicken, there wasn't room for a bun.

The beast is back and better than ever
When the Double Down first came out in 2010, people were shocked. Puny mortals. They don't know true power when it's theirs to be claimed in calorie-laden splendor. But where others would back off or take a few measly bites, I knew a new king had arrived. Hide your children - the Double Down is back in a spicy Zinger variant.


I could go on about health facts, calories, sodium levels and whatnot, but honestly, if you're even thinking about eating a Double Down Zinger (DDZ), the only two things in your mind should be 1) how fucking awesome it'll be, and 2) how much exercise you're gonna have to do to make up for eating it. Seriously. You'll have to go through some serious punishment at the gym just to cancel this bad boy out, but if you ask me, it is damn worth it at just Php 120.00. Nowhere has meat been so packed since that video I downlo- Anyway that's besides the point. You haven't lived until you've had the DDZ.




Sunday, November 13, 2011

Home-Made for The Holidays

by Ryan


If the popularity of weekend markets and home bakers say anything it's this: People are now more interested in understanding what they eat as well as the process behind it. Foodies all over are trying their hand in making everything from Callebaut cookies to donut burgers to turducken - and actually making a business out of it. Home-Made for The Holidays, Chefs Aileen Anastacio and Angelo Comsti's latest collaboration, is a DIY no-fuss primer on how to make stellar Christmas creations to wow and spoil guests. Their recent book launch showcased some mouth-watering examples:

White Belgian Chocolate Cheesecake

Assorted goodies ranging from caviar to cheese dips to pretty frosted cupcakes
Host (and baker) Erica Paredes asks Aileen and Angelo about their latest collaboration

Irresistible gingerbread cookies 
 Here's what you can expect from Aileen and Angelo:

  • An easy-to-follow guide to over 60 recipes this holiday season and beyond
  • Potential gift and business ideas
  • Tips on how to package and present
  • A list of easy to find ingredients.
What's more they've got 2 special treats this Christmas season. Contact 09214802482 for more information
  • By-order food baskets put together by Aileen and Angelo (4 different kinds)
  • A Home-Made for The Holidays cooking class on November 28th at the Pino Kitchen Studio in Quezon City. Limited slots only.

Savoring the Bronx

by Bianca

Fatigued by crime stories in the Bronx, my classmate Celia and I decided to do a couple of pieces on restaurants in the borough for a change. We swung by Arthur Avenue for some cannoli and fresh mozzarella, but most foodies already know about the old Italian district---we wanted to dig more into the Bronx's seamy belly for our article. The first stop was Real Azteca, an authentic Mexican taqueria in Hunts Point, while the second one was Neerob, a Bangladeshi eatery in Parkchester.

Both restaurants are real gems; the dishes we tried had bright, piquant flavors---maybe a bit much for most Western palates. No wishy-washy fusion, because the dishes were clearly created for their respective immigrant communities.

How to make a fresh tortilla.
From chili to salsa. 
No ground beef here---that's slow-cooked, hand-pulled meat 
I had a steak quesadilla for $4.
Tamarind soda!

The best part was, Celia and I walked away with bellies full to bursting for under $10.

Today's foray into Parkchester brought us to Neerob, located in the heart of a Bangladeshi community. It was packed when we got there at about 2pm; we shared a table with an elderly man who was sipping some tea. He didn't speak English, but he nodded at us encouragingly as we dug into our spread of fish, duck curry, bhorta (a sort of mash eaten with triangles of naan bread), fruit-studded rice, and pakoras. Neerob's been attracting a more diverse set of foodies lately---The New York Times and the New York Daily News wrote articles about it---so they weren't surprised when we walked in and asked a lot of questions about our meal.

Naan and duck curry
Pakoras and fish curry with cilantro 

Craving for: Fresh Tuba from Chef Tatung's

by Ryan

While doing an errand in Sikatuna Village, a friend took me to Chef Tatung's, both the home and restaurant of Myke 'Tatung' Sarthou. It was a spur of the moment side trip, and we didn't get to try a meal (this time), but Tatung gave us a tour of the redone place. He also served some refreshing tuba-turned-sherbet perfect to fend off  the afternoon heat. The blue flower was picked from his own garden.

Tatung's menu has gone through some changes: first European then Pan-Asian and finally, as if realizing he had to return to his own roots, he's back to the basics of Filipino although with his own personal touches.

See you soon, Tatung. I'm bringing back up.

Sunday, October 30, 2011

Apple of my eye, part deaux

by Bianca


More on apples, and New York. My roommates and I decided to go apple-picking for Amanda's birthday (she's the one in the red plaid top), so we rented a car---and luckily got upgraded to a BMW sedan---and went upstate to Outhouse Orchards. By the time we got there, the apples left were most Cortland and Red Delicious, as the Honeycrisps (my favorite) had been picked early in the season. Nonetheless, we had a pretty good time walking around the orchard, picking apples off trees, and munching on them as we went along.


However, my favorite part of the orchard was the stall that sold apple cider donuts. I am not kidding when I say that those were probably the best I've had in my life; warm and springy, they were dusted with cinnamon sugar. I may or may not have had three--it's all a blur now. In my defense, I didn't have lunch prior to coming to the orchard.


Now that we've a sack full of apples in the apartment, we've been coming up with inventive ways to use them. Mostly, we eat them raw---I cut cheese cubes to go with them, or dip them in speculoos spread and granola for an easy dessert. Now that New York is coated in snow from an early October snowstorm, I'm glad we went on that apple picking adventure last week to savor the weather and the Van Gogh-like landscape upstate.

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Viva La Vegan

by Ryan
Where's the beef?: A meat-free pizza party at Kitchen Revolution
Usually, the word 'vegan' gives me pause. I once spent two nights at The Farm at San Benito, and after several meals of coconut-derived bacon and crumbly mock tofu egg, I was knee-deep in withdrawal, hallucinating tap dancing Big Macs and pieces of sirloin that called out my name.

Come with me, Ryan, it said while showing its well-marbled rear. Meat is always fun!

Going vegetarian I can understand; there are certain virtues to skipping meat once in a while. While I don't mind the occasional faux pork banh mi at Wabi-Sabi, I've always thought of veganism as vegetarianism's pickier, snootier sister  -- one who does Bikram yoga, organizes weekly PETA rallies, and subsists on a steady diet of leaves and misery.

The party was over once the vegan arrived. Or at least that's what I thought.

Chef Marie Gonzalez runs Kitchen Revolution (KR), both a blog and a series of classes, which does much to elevate vegan and vegetarian cooking in the eyes of the meat-savvy public. "People have this impression about vegans and vegetarians; that they rarely eat, and it's all about Mother Earth and Sister Moon to them. That's not really the case here."


Chef Marie (middle) with some of the Kitchen Revolution students

By here she means KR's test site, a working kitchen in her Alabang residence that churns out surprisingly delectable dishes from ratatouille to toasted couscous to tofu barbecue on a weekly basis. Different cuisines or party ideas each class keep the curriculum fresh and dynamic. It's fun, interactive, and even the most adamant of carnivores are bound to be impressed. (Northerners need not fret; Marie held a cooking class at Teachers Village's Pipino, and plans to do so again in the near future.)

For her recent birthday, Marie threw a pizza party at her home, and in true KR fashion, made up for sausage and bacon in absentia with some marvelous substitutes: marinara, roasted garlic and eggplant, tofu ricotta, almond parmesan, and (gasp!) truffle oil among other things.


It's not everyday you go to a dinner party, and end up working for your own meal, but who's to complain? (Actually I did, because I chose a dry, whole wheat dough instead of regular dough, but that's besides the point.) Everyone had a great time especially Jella who practically wrestled with her pizza:


Pie's the limit: Guests' pizzas all lined up before the oven
In a culinary culture bombarded by quick-fix seasonings and fast food "infused" with so-called nutritional properties *cough*Jollibee chicken nuggets with carrots*cough*, it's reassuring to see that there are new options for people who want to eat better. I don't dream of that dancing sirloin these days, but of a crusty pizza laden with plump mushrooms, fat onion slices, and a bed of hot tofu ricotta drizzled with truffle oil no less.

From left to right: Marie, friends Earnie, Jella, Jerome, and Forkplay's very own Jon
As if that weren't enough, for dessert, Marie prepared an impressive vegan banana cream pie with a layer of speculoos. Speculoos is a peanut butter or Nutella-like spread made in Belgium that uses traditional gingerbread cookies as its base. It's almost unheard of locally, but if you have friends going to Europe or New York they must bring this back at all costs. It does wonders for waffles and toast, but banana cream pie is no less of a winner. It's hard to think something so good could also be guilt-free, but then again that's the whole preamble of Marie's classes.

Knee-quivering good speculoos banana cream pie


Contact Kitchen Revolution at +639178945086 or email info@kitchenrevolution.ph

Visit KR at http://www.facebook.com/kitchenrevolution or at kitchenrevolution.ph
Upcoming classes:
November
5th - Pinoy meets vegan
19th - Perfection by way of pizza
26th - Much ado about hors d'oeuvres

December
3rd or 10th - Vegan Noche Buena or Pies and cookies

Monday, October 3, 2011

Apple of my eye

by Bianca

As a grad school student in New York, one of the priciest cities in the world, I'm always pinching pennies. At the same time, family and friends warned me against stuffing myself with cheap, unhealthy junk food (check out this video on Bronx bodegas, where the "food" is dirt cheap and probably just as unhealthy as that), so I make an effort to get my fill of fruit and vegetables every week. Whole Foods? Forget it. I get my goods at Trader Joe's and farmer's markets in the Bronx, where I'm assigned to report.

But again, as a grad student, time is just as scarce as money, so I can't keep making meals and snacks from scratch every day. When I find pockets of time, I cook in big batches to spread out for several meals. Over the weekend, I made a chicken potpie topped with Southern biscuits; today, I made homemade salsa with juicy red tomatoes and plenty of cilantro to use as stuffing for chicken-hummus whole grain wraps. I've already made balsamic adobo twice, and I'm proud to say my cooking skills have greatly improved.

However, I've a big problem with snacking---I end up writing a lot of papers well into the night, and I need brain food to keep going. Unfortunately, my soft spot for Oreos and milk isn't doing my sugar levels any favors, so I had to come up with munchies to help me get through those nights (and long days in the classroom).

I love Seneca apple chips; who doesn't? But they're pretty pricey, and after discovering that they were actually fried and not baked, I swore to make my own. I already owned a dehydrator (a spinoff of a previous project on fruit leathers---more on that in another entry), so making these were a cinch.


Slice apples thinly to get your chips crispy
You can core the apples or leave that pretty star-shaped center

Soak sliced apples in lemon water to
prevent them from browning
Sprinkle with cinnamon, and lay them on your dehydrator 
Check on them after 4-8 hours (depending on the temperature used.
I prefer a low one to keep the enzymes alive). 
Sprinkle even more cinnamon to taste, and sugar if you want.
Ta-dah! Apple chips!

Peca(n) Boo!: Where to find Manila's Pecan Pies

by Twinkle

A pecan pie is hard to find, a good pecan pie is even harder.

I used to go to Mamou for my regular pecan pie fix, but lately I've been wondering "what else is out there?".  So I've search high and low, got distracted by other desserts along the way, and came to the conclusion that I would hate it if someone gave me a box full of Lusso’s pecan pie as a gift.

The flaky crust, rich pie filling, and generous portion of fresh pecans simply make me cave in and reach for just ‘one more’.  I would go to Lusso just to have this pie.  So imagine how dangerous it is for me to actually have one big box in the fridge, calling out my name.  After having a few mini pies, I realized eating it with a fork just doesn't cut it.  I don’t mean for you to go all ‘Rambo’ at the dinner table (although that would be entertaining to watch), but pick-up the pecan pie with your hands and take one big bite.  I can’t explain it, but it makes the experience of that first bite even better.

It was calling out my name and I answered…

pecan pie + hot cup of tea = sweet beginnings (dessert for breakfast)
Using the same principle for budget re-alignment, I have my pecan pie for breakfast then promised to be good for the rest of the day just to balance out the calories.  Self-deluded?  Maybe, but it makes me feel better if I look at it that way.

Other things I tell myself to justify eating pecan (pie):
1.   Pecans are sodium-free.
2.   1 ounce of pecans = 10% of the daily recommended value for fiber, and has over 19 vitamins     and minerals.
3.   Pecans are part of the elite food group that are known for having the highest antioxidant capacity.
4.   A handful of pecans a day helps prevent coronary heart disease.
5.   I’ll start my diet after enjoying this last slice… (And we all know that’s not happening…)

Since we can now feel better about having a slice or two, here's the shortlist of places where you could find the right pecan pie for you.

                       Manila’s Pecan Pies –  The hit or miss list:

1.  Lusso 
           G/F Greenbelt 5, Legaspi St.,
           Legaspi Village, Makati
           (02) 756-5893

2.  Mamou/Blue Kitchen – A favorite go-to place for pecan pie.



             The Blue Kitchen,
             Power Plant Mall
             (02) 898-0931

3.  Mandarin Oriental Hotel (upon request)
             Makati Avenue, 
             Makati City 
             (02) 750 8888

4.  Calea (Bacolod City) – It's not in Manila but I couldn't resist adding it on to the list.  If you want it that bad, you will travel for pie.
             Lourdes - C Bldg. Lacson St.
             Bacolod City, Negros Occidental
             (034) 433-866

5.  U.S. Embassy Cafeteria – Initially I thought this was just an urban legend but I just verified that it exists!  Chef P says it’s not just good - it’s “soooo ggoooooood”.  This is definitely going to be the next on my list!

6. Dulcelin Gourmet’s Caramel Pecan Walnut Pie
             36 Times St., West Triangle
             Quezon City 1104
             (02) 374-2165 

7.  Marciano's
            2/F Greenbelt 3
            Legaspi Village, Makati
            (02) 729-0467

8.  Tourne’s Pili Pie –  If you want to try the local alternative.  It's not the crust, nor is it the filling that make the dish.  The freshness of the pili nuts used (sourced from Naga) is undoubtedly the star of this dessert.  
              The Fort Strip
              (02) 555-0267







P.S. I haven’t tried them all myself, so if you’ve tried any of the items on the list, and want to save me some calories please do let me know which ones I should make room for.  

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Diwal-icious at the Mandarin Oriental

by Ryan

Sometimes one good thing leads to another: While tracking down a baker from Ilo-Ilo known for her homemade yema cake, Twinkle and I ended up with invites to a Visayan-themed luncheon at the Mandarin Oriental. As it turns out, the baker in question was also guesting at Paseo Uno for this week's Diwal-icious Visayas: Bounties of The Sea. Not only did we have our fill of yema cake (flown in from Bacolod no less), but also of Chef Pauline Gorriceta-Banusing's other specialties inspired by Ilo-Ilo's thriving culinary scene.

Just this week: Diwal-icious at Paseo Uno

Expect a variety of shellfish including diwal
'Angel Wing' clams (upper right)  during the week-long festival
The food fest revolves around diwal or Angel Wing clams - succulent, juicy shellfish flown in from Capiz. Placed in the endangered species list years ago, diwal has made a bold comeback thanks to the concerted efforts of Capiz locals, the government, and the scientific community. So serious are they about seafood that they hold a yearly seafood festival in Roxas City to celebrate the return of diwal.

Personally I've never been much of a seafood fanatic past the occasional fish and chips. (Which is a shame I know given that I live in a country of over 7,000 islands.) Live shrimp and lobster at Chinese restaurant aquariums intrigue and horrify me, and when cooked and served whole, impress me more as subjects for dissection than potential dinner.

Mmm... Can somebody say facehugger from Aliens?


Bring on the Filipino flavors. Clockwise from upper right: Shrimps in aligue, tuna kilawin, fresh lumpia
Still, it's hard not to resist Mandarin's current seafood buffet (even though diwal's scientific name, cyrtopleura costata, still unnerves me). Expect baby lobsters, shrimp cooked with crab fat, blue marlin, seaweed salad, and pink salmon among the cast. As for the famous clam, you'll be surprised by how much meat there is in each shell. Found fresh, it's already surprisingly sweet. But at the buffet, a little garlic and rock salt adds some welcome contrast. Abroad, diwal is called Angel Wing clams; a prettier, gentler name taken from it's long, oblong-shaped shell reminiscent of angel wings.

Sweet, delicate, juicy Adriana Lima -er, Angel Clams
And while you dine on Visayan seafood, God forbid this be an Ilonggo buffet without all-stars like chicken inasal, chicken binakol, and batchoy.

I'm only happy when it rains...and I'm eating batchoy
Chef Pauline's Chicken binakol has subtler flavors

After what seemed like endless trips back to the buffet table, Twinkle and I finally sunk our forks into Chef Pauline's winning yema cake. Part of The Philippine Daily Inquirer's list of 25 best desserts for 2010, the yema cake will spoil you from first to the last mouthful. Texture-wise it's very dense with layers of meringue icing and yema spread that, as a whole, surprisingly, isn't as sweet as you'd expect. There's a welcome sprinkling of cashew on top as well. Last holiday season, Chef Pauline received a total of 113 orders a few days before Christmas, prompting her to fly from Ilo-Ilo City to Manila on board with more than a hundred boxes of yema cake. Now that's dedication.

The infamous yema cake
Thankfully, she's found an easier way since then: Manileños can order 5 days ahead from Chef Pauline and expect their cake flown over and made available for pick up at her family's restaurant, Freska, at the Promenade in Greenhills. In the meantime, you can savor as much of it as you want the whole of this week, or hoard taro-based toffee bars and servings of ibo (a type of local suman) drizzled with molasses and slivers of Guimaras mango.


Twinkle trying to pry the yema cake recipe from Chef Pauline...


Diwal-icious Visayas: Bounties of The Sea is available at Paseo Uno, The Mandarin Oriental, Makati City from September 19 to 25. Buffet starts at Php 1,800.00++. For more information contact +63 (2) 7508888 ext. 2412/2413.

To order Chef Pauline Gorriceta-Banusing's yema cake contact +63 (2) 7443446, +63 09209039603, or e-mail paulineiloilo@yahoo.com.